Please Note, we are awaiting new prices for the 2008 futures. We expect to have them by August 10th. Thank you for all of your responses so far. This has been a memorable year for futures at Mills.
2008 Bordeaux Futures »
Wine Futures are wines that are reserved for customers at a retail price that have not been price inflated by movement to the retailers' shelves. In other words, the wine has not yet come to market. The customer is asked to purchase the wine at a pre-determined retail price although the wines have not been released from the producer or winemaker to the supplier. These prices offer the customer a significant savings from the retail costs that will be charged after the wine has been released. Wine futures are sometimes available only in limited quantities and/or sell out rapidly, dramatically increasing their value.
Bordeaux futures are considered the best of the world class selections due to their ageing qualities and the prices they capture at auction. During the "technology stock" downfall of the stock market in the early 2000s, Bordeaux wines that had been cellared during the 1980s not only quadrupled in value but held their gains while stock portfolios seriously declined. This has led many collectors to reaffirm the belief that wine not only gets better with age but is a better investment than stocks.
For many years Mills has been at the forefront of Bordeaux future classified offerings. Bordeaux's 2008 vintage is no exception. We have compiled a very interesting and eclectic listing of available Chateaux wines. We are including Robert Parker's comments about the actual Chateau and his comments about the vintage as a whole. In fact, with only 2 exceptions, our entire selection has received 90 Plus Points from Parker's Wine Advocate.
Luckily, since our new wine buyer has some excellent Bordeaux connections, we have affiliated with a Classified Broker who has not done business before in the Mid-Atlantic (lots of business in New York and Chicago). Therefore, we are one of the few retailers to be able to offer Chateau Le Gay. There are also some real steals in this offering like Chateau Desmirail, Chateau Le Thil, Chateau Fonbel from Alain Vauthier of Ausone, Chateau Jean de Gue from Lalande de Pomerol, and Chateau Lalande Borie, just to name a few.
First, here are a few words about the 2008 vintage from Robert Parker. Below that are the individual reviews along with Parker's score (where available), sorted by chateaux. On the right hand column, you will find the bottle and case prices, information on ordering, and our contact information.
As always, if you have any questions, feel free to call or email with any you may may have.
2008 Vintage Bordeaux Futures as of May, 2009
In Vino Veritas - The 2008 Red Bordeaux by Robert M. Parker, Jr.: "While heading to Bordeaux for my first look at the 2008 vintage, I was worried that at best, quality would be average to above average. With the deepening global economic crisis, I wondered what the point was of putting my nose to the grindstone for 10-12 hours a day for ten long days, not to mention the enormous expense involved in travel, lodging, transportation, etc. Would this be 10 days wasted tasting an unexciting as well as unsaleable vintage?"
I should have known better... It did not take me long to realize that the 2008 vintage was dramatically better than I had expected. It had all the qualities that make an excellent and in some cases, a great vintage so special: exceptionally dark opaque colors, gorgeously ripe fruit, stunning purity almost across the board, great freshness (because it was a cool year), slightly higher acids than normal, and remarkable density as well as concentration. Moreover, one of the significant keys to evaluating quality is the maturity of the tannins. In 2008, the tannins are unusually velvety, even in wines that may lack concentration. By day three I was thinking about how this could have happened. When you look at all the facts (not the rumor-mongering from irresponsible bloggers), it seems clear that after the vinifications were done in late October and early November, something excellent had been produced. The wine producers all knew it, but Bordeaux is always the first to be accused of over-hyping their wines, and the global economic crisis had begun in earnest by November, 2008... The quality of the 2008 vintage turned out to be excellent, with a number of superb wines that are close to, if not equal to the prodigious 2005 or 2000 vintages (two years with many of the best wines I have ever tasted from top to bottom) - Robert Parker
Terms and Conditions of Sale: Minimum order per Chateaux is 6 Bottles. Payment must be made at time of order. We will not charge your credit card until we have confirmation of availability. Prices are subject to change. We are not responsible for any typographical errors in pricing.
All sales are subject to confirmation. As many people are buying Bordeaux Futures from limited inventories, we must receive confirmation from our brokers before we can confirm your order.
Balestard La Tonelle (St. Emilion)
"One of the sleepers of the vintage, the 2008 is the finest effort from this estate since 1982. It boasts an opaque black/purple color as well as sweet black fruit characteristics intermixed with notions of charcoal, underbrush, and forest floor. Opulent and super-concentrated, with excellent fruit density, surprising power and length, and noticeable tannins (velvety and well-integrated), this is a noteworthy effort that should age for 15+ years." (P 90-93).
Boyd Cantenac (Margaux)
"This property never receives the accolades it deserves, but the wine is consistently rich, full-bodied, and densely-colored, with sweet floral, blackberry, and cassis notes in addition to outstanding purity, texture, and length. The 2008 will handsomely repay aging of 20-25 years." (P 90-92).
Brane Cantenac (Margaux)
"This is one of the most complex wines of the appellation, exhibiting notes of underbrush, sweet currants, cherries, and subtle touches of roasted herbs, incense, and spice box. It does not possess the power or depth of the 2005, and may not even eclipse the 2006, but it is a beautiful, pure, mid-weight, well-balanced, impeccably pure Margaux that should drink well for 15+ years." (P 90-93)
Calon Segur (St.-Estephe)
"Perhaps that explains the elegant, but rich style of the 2008 Calon Segur, which is dominated more than usual by Cabernet Sauvignon. Cropped at 40 hectoliters per hectare, it is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot. Its sweet perfume of black currants, tobacco leaf, and licorice is followed by a wine with superb purity, good freshness, and a full-bodied style with ripe tannin as well as a long finish. Somewhat reminiscent of the 1996, although this vintage carries a much higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2008 should be relatively approachable given the sweetness of the tannins, and will evolve for 20-25 years." (P 90-93)
Cantenac Brown (Margaux)
"For producing the finest Cantenac-Brown I have ever tasted, kudos go to the new administration and proprietor. This property has always produced a rustic, austere wine with too much tannin and muscle for its delicate Margaux personality. However, in 2008 the tannin has been tamed, and it is now sweet, ripe, and well-integrated. The wine exhibits a dense purple color in addition to a ripe bouquet of black fruits, licorice, smoke, and underbrush. It is a medium-bodied, classic Margaux that will benefit from 3-5 years of bottle age, and should keep for 20-25 years." (P 90-92)
Carbonnieux (Pessac Leognan)
"Always a quintessentially elegant-styled offering, the dense ruby/purple-colored 2008 Carbonnieux reveals outstanding purity in its deep kirsch, black currant, underbrush, and herb notes. This is not a blockbuster, but it exhibits more density than most examples over recent years. Beautiful sweet tannins, luscious red and black fruits, medium body, and a long finish suggest this 2008 should be at its peak between 2013-2022." (P 90-92)
Chauvin (St. Emilion)
"The deep ruby/purple-hued 2008 Chauvin offers up notes of black fruits, incense, licorice, and subtle oak. With ripe tannin, full body, good concentration and purity, and a multilayered personality, this impressively rich effort is capable of lasting 15 or more years." (P 90-92)
Clos Fourtet (St. Emilion)
"The harvest ran from October 9-20, and the 2008 Clos Fourtet tips the scales at 13% natural alcohol. A blend of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc, it exhibits an inky/purple color along with notes of pen ink, blackberry liqueur, and espresso roast, sensationally concentrated layers of pure black fruits, a full-bodied, powerful style, crisp acids, dense fruit, and ripe tannins. This brilliant 2008 may merit an even higher score after additional time in wood. It will evolve for 20-25 years." (P 92-94). The resurrection of Clos Fourtet over the last 7-8 years is attributable to the vision and dedication of proprietor Cuvelier, along with his manager, Tony Balu (owner of the tiny garagiste estate called Pierre de Lune), and the incomparable consultant, Stephane Derenoncourt.
Clos l'Eglise (Pommerol)
"An intense yet delicate effort, this Pomerol property had a tiny production in 2008, and the levels of concentration and polyphenols are as high as, or surpass those in 2005, 2001, 2000, and 1998, the most recent top vintages of Clos l-Eglise. The dense purple-colored 2008 reveals a sweet perfume of blue and black fruits, licorice, truffles, graphite, and forest floor. With superb concentration, beautiful intensity, an unevolved, backward style (no doubt due to the late harvest and late malolactics), and high, but sweet, well-integrated tannins, this full-bodied, admirably concentrated 2008 should be at its peak between 2013-2028. " (P 92-94+)
D'Aguilhe (Castillon)
"A sleeper of the vintage as well as a great bargain, this effort from Stefan von Neipperg's empire is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Like so many of his wines, the grapes are hand-harvested in small plastic containers, there is strict temperature control, a month-long maceration, a Burgundian punch down (pigeage), malolactic takes place in oak, and the wine is aged sur-lie. An inky/purple color is followed by a beautiful bouquet of crushed rocks, black raspberries, and blueberries, sensational intensity, sweet, but high tannins, good acidity, and amazing length, especially for a wine of this pedigree. It should drink nicely for a decade." (P 90-92)
Desmirail (Margaux)
Note, this is not Parker's review, but that of our own Peter Finkelstein. This Chateau has been one of my secret favorites ever since I spent the Summer of 1970 working at Chateau Palmer. This isn't a sleeper, or below the radar it is positively a "stealth" classified! This is indeed a Third growth, just like Palmer. In fact, at one point it was a part of Palmer! I met the owners in 1970 while wandering around the rear vineyards of Palmer. I strayed onto the Desmirail property. The wine is a classic, softer Margaux that will easily last 15 plus years. It never gets reviewed, the owners must be hermits, we rarely see it in the USA, but here it is at a great value!
Destieux (St. Emilion)
"Low yields of 32 hectoliters per hectare and a final blend of 66% Merlot and the rest equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon have produced a wine offering plenty of minerality as well as sweet black cherry and black currant fruit intermixed with hints of earth, herbs, and toasty oak. It possesses full-bodied power, excellent richness, moderately sweet tannin, and a long finish. The natural alcohol came in at a lofty 14%. The 2008 Destieux should drink well for 15-20 years." (P 90-93).
D'Issan (Margaux)
"This beautifully elegant, precise, well-delineated 2008 displays a dense ruby/purple color as well as a sweet perfume of spring flowers, blue and black fruits, and subtle graphite and earth. Medium to full-bodied with a layered, expansive mouthfeel, impressive purity, and a long finish with no hint of aggressiveness, this effort should be at its peak in 4-6 years, and evolve for 20-25 years." (P 91-93).
Ducru Beaucaillou (St. Julien)
" In Bruno Borie's words, the 2008 Ducru Beaucaillou is "well above 2004, with much more structure than 2007, and more sensuality than 2006." I would add that it is even better than that, and as profound as the 2005. Approximately 33% of the crop made it into Ducru, which came in at 13.1% natural alcohol. This 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot blend reveals a dense opaque purple color as well as a gorgeously sweet bouquet of spring flowers, creme de cassis, blackberry liqueur, licorice, espresso roast, and spice. A testament to the density and richness of this wine is the fact that no oak is apparent in the aromas or flavors. The wine is unctuously textured, but analytically, it has a good level of total acid and sound pH. This fabulous offering will age effortlessly for 30-40+ years. Bruno Borie deserves accolades for the remarkable things he has accomplished at Ducru Beaucaillou over the last few years." (P 96-98).
Duhart-Milon-Rothschild (Pauillac)
"As I have previously written, Duhart Milon has become one of the stars of Pauillac thanks to the meticulous attention to detail as well as the investments made by the Rothschild family. A blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot, with the Cabernet picked during the week of October 8-15, and the Merlot a week earlier, the 2008 offers up sweet aromas of cassis, licorice, crushed rocks, and forest floor in an expressive, graceful aromatic display. Freshness, superb concentration, high but ripe, sweet tannins, and good acids characterize this dense, concentrated wine. It possesses a stunning upside potential of 25-30 years. Yet, like so many of these 2008s, the ripeness of the tannins along with the density and sweetness of the fruit suggest it will be approachable at an early age." (P 93-95).
Fonbel (St. Emilion)
"From Alain Vauthier of Chateau Ausone. A dark ruby/purple color is accompanied by sweet aromas of black cherries, black currants, incense, smoke, and damp earth. This medium-bodied St.-Emilion reveals excellent depth, ripeness, freshness, and vibrancy as well as velvety tannins. Enjoy it during its first 10-12 years of life." (P 88-90).
Feytit Clinet (Pomerol)
"One of the finest efforts yet made at this estate situated not far from Trotanoy and Latour a Pomerol, the 2008 Feytit-Clinet is a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Yields were a modest 34 hectoliters per hectare. The wine exhibits a dense ruby/purple color in addition to a muscular, concentrated, full-bodied style with brilliant purity as well as texture. It is capable of lasting 15-20 years. Consumers should keep an eye on this Pomerol estate. " (P 91-93).
Fonroque (St. Emilion)
"A late harvest (between September 29 and October 15) at this biodynamically farmed vineyard owned by Alain Moueix resulted in a dark ruby/purple-hued 2008 offering sweet charcoal, black cherry, black currant, and floral notes. Medium to full-bodied, deep, and rich with excellent purity, depth, and power as well as supple tannins, this impressive effort should drink well for 15-20 years." (P 90-92).
Gazin (Pomerol)
"The 2008 is a marvelous effort from this property situated adjacent to Petrus and only a stone's throw from l'Evangile. An amazing effort, the wine exhibits an inky/ruby/purple color, wonderful concentration, a beautifully sweet perfume of caramels, mocha, jammy black currants, and smoky blackberries, a full-bodied mouthfeel, a layered, skyscraper-like texture, and sweet but elevated tannins. Overall, it displays gorgeous freshness and delineation. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025." (P 94-96).
Grand-Mayne (St. Emilion)
"A true blockbuster from St.Emilion, and unquestionably Grand-Mayne's finest effort since their 2005 and 1998, the 2008 boasts an inky/purple color as well as a lovely bouquet of blueberry liqueur, roasted coffee, and a touch of sweet, smoky oak. Full-bodied with exceptional density, super-ripe tannins, an impressive texture, and a 35+ second finish, this cuvee should be drinkable at an early age (2-4 years), and last for 15 or more." (P 92-94).
Haut Bailly (Graves)
The 2008 exhibits superb minerality as well as the delicacy of a great culinary preparation, packed and stacked with flavor, yet light on its feet. The 2008 will compete, perhaps eclipse the sensational 2005 and 2006. A dense ruby/purple color is followed by notes of charcoal, graphite, black currants, sweet cherries, spice box, and subtle earth. The wine possesses super purity, a medium to full-bodied, gorgeous texture, ripe, sweet tannins, and a layered mouthfeel. The acidity provides freshness, vibrancy, and delineation to all the component parts of this very concentrated yet quintessentially elegant wine. It is a sensational effort that should begin showing secondary nuances of complexity in 8-10 years, and evolve for three decades or more. In a few short years, new proprietor Robert Wilmers and his winemaker, Veronique Sanders, have raised Haut-Bailly's quality to the level of Pape-Clement, La Mission-Haut-Brion, and Haut-Brion." (P 95-97).
Haut Bergey (Margaux)
"The earthy, smoky notes intermixed with notions of black fruits and road tar found in this blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot are classic Graves traits. Sweet, dense fruit, with tremendous opulence, a layered mouthfeel, and excellent purity, freshness, and ripe tannins are displayed in abundance in this beautifully made offering from proprietor Helene Garcin. It should age effortlessly for 20 years." (P 92-94+).
Jean de Gue (LaLande de Pomerol)
"A sensational effort from Lalande de Pomerol, this superbly concentrated sleeper of the vintage boasts a dense ruby/purple color as well as abundant black fruit characteristics interwoven with notions of forest floor, damp earth, charcoal, and a subtle smokiness. Revealing good flesh, a hint of mocha in the mouth, a beautiful texture, medium to full-bodied flavors, and well-integrated acidity that provides freshness as well as delineation, it should provide plenty of pleasure over the next 5-8 years." (P 90-92).
La Confession (St. Emilion)
"This is an amazing effort among the many dazzling 2008 St.-Emilions. Proprietor Jean-Philippe Janoueix (who appears to be in his mid-thirties) has produced a riveting wine from a blend of 66% Merlot and 34% Cabernet Franc that tips the scales at 13.8% natural alcohol. Janoueix, an advocate of high density vine plantings, has fashioned a 2008 with sensational fruit levels, an inky ruby/purple color, stunning texture (akin to a Shanghai skyscraper), and tremendous purity. Despite 100% malolactic in new French oak, and aging in the weird looking cigar-shaped barrels, the oak is well-concealed by the wine's wealth of fruit and concentration. Chocolate, charcoal, blackberry, and blueberry aromas and flavors dominate this sensational effort. It possesses high tannins, but, like so many of the top wines of this vintage, they are sweet and ripe. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020+." (P 92-94).
La Conseillante (Pomerol)
"This estate has long been known for its elegant, complex, racy, supple, delicious wines, but the 2008 is more massive, structured, and concentrated than usual. There is a lot going on in this richer, more tannic effort. No one will be disappointed, but purchasers should not expect a wine that will be drinkable upon release. A dense ruby/purple color as well as plenty of concentration, sweet, but elevated tannins, and a huge finish suggest this estate is moving in the direction of Gazin, Lafleur, and Trotanoy. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2030. With the next generation of the Nicolas family taking over, there appears to be a change in style at La Conseillante (although it is not fair to judge after just one vintage). " (P 92-94+).
La Fleur de Gay (Pomerol)
"This could turn out to be the finest La Fleur de Gay since the incredible duo of 1989 and 1990. Made from 35-year-old Merlot vines planted on the plateau of Pomerol, sandwiched between the renowned Lafleur and Le Gay, the dense purple-hued 2008 exhibits aromas of sweet black raspberries, blueberries, graphite, charcoal, and subtle wood. The wine displays a sensational texture, tremendous purity, and a remarkably long finish of nearly 50 seconds. There is no aggressiveness, the tannins are ripe, and the wine's acidity provides crispness as well as precision. Revealing exceptional density as well as potential, it should evolve over 20-25 years. " (P 93-95).
Lagrange (St. Julien)
"The rather overt oak often found in this cuvee seems to have been considerably tamed in the 2008. It is more charming, displaying a plush texture along with sweet cassis and black cherry fruit intertwined with intriguing notes of Christmas fruitcake, spice box, and herbs. There is plenty of sweet tannin in this medium-bodied effort, but unlike the tannins in the right bank wines, the tannins in most of the northern Medocs are more prominent, largely because these wines possess high percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon. Five to eight years of patience will be required, and the 2008 Lagrange should last for 25 years." (P 90-92).
La Lagune (Haut Medoc)
"Over the next quarter of a century, it will be interesting to see how this 2008 matches up with La Lagune's prodigious 2005, the finest wine they have ever made. The opaque ruby/purple-tinged 2008 may be the second greatest wine yet produced here. Displaying sweet kirsch, black currant, cedar, smoke, and graphite aromas as well as an impressive thickness and glycerol richness, and a pure, nuanced character (because of the grapes' long hang-time and the small yields), this remarkable effort is long, textured, and impeccably well-balanced. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 20-25." (P 92-94).
Lalande Borie (St. Julien)
"A noteworthy sleeper of the vintage, the 2008 is the finest Lalande Borie I have yet tasted. Composed of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc that was harvested between October 1-16 during dry, sunny weather with warm days and cool nights. It is a surprisingly dense, supple, fruit-driven effort revealing abundant notes of berry fruit, mocha, and spice box, sweet tannin, and a fleshy mouthfeel. It will have many admirers among those unable to defer their gratification. Enjoy it over the next 7-10 years." (P 88-90).
La Tour du Pin (St. Emilion)
"They have only produced several vintages, but the 2008 is unquestionably a reference point wine. A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, it reveals a super-ripe nose of black fruits, loamy soil, and hints of licorice and spice. This velvety-textured, opulent sleeper of the vintage is well worth a search of the marketplace as purchasers will get all the savoir faire of the Cheval Blanc winemaking team combined with a very good vineyard that has been admirably resurrected. It should drink well young, and last for 12-15 years." (P 90-93). This 17+ acre vineyard is now under the same ownership as Cheval Blanc and is made by essentially the same winemaking team.
Le Gay (Pomerol)
"Is this the greatest Le Gay since the 1950 and 1947? Maybe. Certainly it is the most awesome wine made by the new administration of Catherine Pere-Verge. The renowned Michel Rolland consults here. Yields in 2008 were frightfully small, and the grapes were harvested in mid-October. The result is a black/purple-colored wine revealing a bouquet of graphite, incense, ink, and stunningly pure, rich dark red and black fruits. Massive in the mouth, with surprisingly good acidity, a boatload of sweet, supple tannin, a multilayered mouthfeel, and a finish that lasts nearly a minute, this phenomenal effort should be drinkable between 2015-2040." (P 95-98).
Le Thil Comte Clary (Pessac Leognan)
A brilliant overachiever as well as a sleeper of the vintage, this dense ruby/purple-tinged 2008 emerges from a vineyard site not far from Smith-Haut-Lafitte. A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon that was cropped at very low yields as a result of challenging flowering and growing conditions, it boasts a deep ruby/purple color along with a sweet nose of tobacco leaf, red currants, and blacker fruits. Opulent, round, and pure with good underlying acidity as well as ripe tannin, it should be drunk over the next 7-8 years.
Leoville Las Cases (St. Julien)
"Readers should not be surprised that the 2008 Leoville Las Cases is a great classic as the selection process here is as Draconian as at any of the first-growths. Slightly more than one-third of the production made it into the grand vin, a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Merlot. Yields were just under 38 hectoliters per hectare, and the natural alcohol of 13.4% is among the highest ever measured at this estate. The harvest was very late, between October 6-18, and the result is a wine boasting extraordinarily sweet tannin as well as abundant black cherry and cassis notes intermixed with a prominent underlying minerality. Despite the massive density, concentration, and length, the wine is extremely precise, nuanced, and impeccably pure. This phenomenal effort should be more drinkable in its youth than many other vintages of Las Cases because of the ripe tannins and sweet fruit density. It will need 5-10 years of cellaring, and should last for 40+ years." (P 95-97).
Leoville Poyferre (St.-Julien)
"This powerful, dense, full-bodied 2008 is still backward and unevolved, but it possesses a dense purple color as well as sweet aromas of creme de cassis, vanillin, crushed rocks, and flowers. With high but ripe tannin and a long finish, this wine will benefit from 5-8 years of cellaring, and should keep for three decades thereafter." (P 92-94).
Les Forts de Latour (Pauillac)
"The second wine seems to have picked up most of the Merlot from the Latour vineyards (31.5% Merlot and 66.5% Cabernet Sauvignon dominate the blend). The 2008 Les Forts de Latour is a forward, pure wine displaying remarkably sweet tannins along with aromas of black currants, forest floor, and a hint of underbrush. Opulent, round, and generous, it should drink well for 15-20 years, possibly longer given the fact that the 1982 Les Forts de Latour is still a beautiful wine, and it's "only" 27 years of age!" (P 91-93).
Lynch Bages (Pauillac)
"This strong effort from Lynch Bages may turn out to be the finest wine produced here since the 2000. It is a backward, powerful, opaque purple-colored 2008 with fine acids, firm but sweet tannins, and thick, dense levels of attractive blackberry and cassis fruit intertwined with notions of underbrush, lead pencil shavings, and roasted herbs. It appears to be a denser, richer effort than some of the more lightweight Lynch Bages offerings of recent years. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2030." (P 91-93+).
Montrose (St. Estephe)
"An undeniably great Montrose, after some time in wood, the 2008 should achieve the heights of the 2003, 1990, and 1989. Stylistically different from those wines, the 2008 harvest took place between September 29 and October 15, and yields were a modest 44 hectoliters per hectare. This superb terroir west of the Gironde River possesses a remarkable amount of gravel in the soil base. Sixty percent of the production made it into the 2008 Montrose, and the person responsible for so many great Haut-Brions, Jean-Bernard Delmas, came out of retirement to take charge over the last several vintages for proprietor Martin Bouygues. An inky/purple color is accompanied by sweet, pure aromas of black fruits and spice. This full-bodied wine exhibits superb concentration, sweet tannin, and a multilayered, textured, full-bodied mouthfeel with no hard edges. The sweetness of the tannin, the extraordinary purity of fruit, and the intense aromatics suggest a year of great ripeness. The difference between the 2008 and the 2003, 1990, or 1989 is the freshness and purity of expression. This should be a long-lived wine (35+ years), yet it will drink surprisingly well at a young age. For some reason, it comes across like an even more pure example of the 1989, even though there is nothing essentially comparable between the two harvests." (P 95-97).
Palmer (Margaux)
"The 2008 Palmer, which tips the scales at 13.5% natural alcohol (among the highest achieved at this property), is a blend of 51% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 8% Petit Verdot. It is a massively rich wine with an inky/purple color, sensational density of fruit, velvety tannins, a glorious bouquet of black fruits, licorice, incense, and subtle barbecue smoke, a superb, full-bodied mouthfeel, and a fabulous texture and length. With several minutes of swirling, an enticing floral note emerges. The wine's glycerin and sweetness suggest it will be approachable 3-4 years after bottling, yet keep for three decades or more. It appears to be among the finest Palmers made this decade, rivaling both the 2005 and 2000.
Yields at Palmer were a shockingly low 30 hectoliters per hectare, and the harvest lasted from October 1 to October 17. Keep in mind, the natural alcohol percentage in the Merlots harvested at Chateau Palmer was a low of 13.5% and reached a lofty peak of 14.5%. All the Cabernet Sauvignons came in between 12%-12.5%. Moreover, the level of tannins and dry extract/polyphenols was the same as in 2005, which provides one more piece of evidence in what is a very successful vintage for Bordeaux." (P 95-97).
Pavie (St. Emilion)
"Is the 2008 Pavie superior to the 2005 and 2000? While that is impossible to know at this stage of its development, it will certainly be one of the three greatest Pavies made under the administration of Chantal and Gerard Perse. Cropped at a very low 30 hectoliters per hectare, the final blend is a classic Pavie combination of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The 14.5% natural alcohol is the highest ever achieved at this estate. The inky/blue/purple color is followed by a wine with a concentrated, full-bodied texture, a layered mouthfeel, fresh acids, abundant tannin, and a 50-60-year evolution ahead of it. Compared to the enormous, but backward 2005, the 2008 seems even less evolved at a similar stage. Sweet creme de cassis, black cherry, licorice, and smoky barbecue characteristics combine with a liqueur of minerality that resonates from this terroir that is considered to be among the top dozen or so vineyard sites in Bordeaux. This remarkable offering, from a person who has, thankfully, ignored the petty jealousy and unfair criticism of his administration, is another St.-Emilion for your children's children. For the fact-mongers, this cuvee was hand-harvested between October 13-21, with the grapes put in small plastic containers. Everything is moved by gravity flow, and there is no fining or filtration following a slightly longer than normal aging (28-30 months) in oak casks." (P 96-98+).
Pavie Macquin (St. Emilion)
"I tasted this wine on four occasions, on one of which I was convinced it was still going through malolactic fermentation. It is another superb effort from this property that was elevated to premier grand cru classe status until a judge in Libourne, for unknown reasons, threw out the classification, a decision beyond belief, that is now under appeal. A number of exceptional wines have emerged from Pavie Macquin, which is managed by Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt, and the 2008 boasts a whopping 14.5% natural alcohol, higher than in 2005, 2000, or 1998. While extremely high in tannin and very unevolved, for those with patience and cold cellars, or who plan to pass on their wines to their children, this is a worthwhile choice. It is that backward, concentrated, and impressive. It exhibits a black/purple color in addition to stunning notes of graphite, black fruits, underbrush, chocolate, and roasted coffee beans. Full-bodied, powerful, and rich, the high but sweet tannins, combined with the freshness of the acids make for a remarkably youthful, nuanced wine that should easily age for three decades." (P 93-95).
Pichon-Longueville Baron (Pauillac)
"Firm, but sweet tannins (which suggests ideal maturity) characterize this 2008. Displaying good minerality along with plenty of floral, creme de cassis, blackberry, coffee, and white chocolate notes, this full-bodied, dense, promising Pauillac is built to age for 20-25 years." (P 92-94).
Pichon-Longueville Comtess de Lalande (Pauillac)
"The 2008 Pichon Lalande's final blend was 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Only 38% of the crop made it into the grand vin, and the result is a wine that blows away the 2005. Terrific texture and opulence, forward fruit, sweet tannin, and a lush personality are found in this dense purple-colored 2008 along with copious quantities of sweet berries, roasted coffee, underbrush, black currant, and black cherry fruit. Sensationally pure, textured, and full-bodied, this will be a flamboyant, showy offering in its youth, but it is capable of lasting 20-30 years." (P 94-96).
Pontet Canet (Pauillac)
"A wine for our children's children. Nobody in Bordeaux is more attentive to detail than Alfred Tesseron is at Pontet-Canet. Fashioned from incredibly low yields, a very late harvest, and a Draconian selection, the 2008 will not be close to drinkability for at least a decade, and it should still be in superb form circa 2060. An absolutely amazing effort, it boasts an inky/black/purple color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of creme de cassis, graphite, charcoal, and incense, blockbuster depth, and full-bodied power. The tannins are high, but they are remarkably velvety as well as well-integrated. Sensational acidity gives the wine precision and vibrancy, but the impression is one of massive concentration and power. The 2008 Pontet-Canet, a candidate for the wine of the vintage, is a tour de force in viticultural precision and winemaking savoir faire. " (P 96-98).
Quinalt L'Enclos (St. Emilion)
" A combination of 75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, the 2008 was cropped at what may be the lowest yields ever for Quinault, 18 hectoliters per hectare. Its natural alcohol content is among the highest ever, 13.5%. The 2008 is a stylish, classic Quinault exhibiting abundant blueberry and raspberry notes intermixed with hints of toasty new oak, forest floor, and earth. The wine is medium-bodied and elegant with sweet tannin, and slightly less power and oak than usual. It should drink well for 12-15 years." (P 90-92). With the sale of this property to the owners of Cheval Blanc and the subsequent departure of Alain Raynaud to his family estates of La Croix de Gay and La Fleur de Gay, the winemaking at Quinault l'Enclos has changed slightly, but the high percentage of new oak and general blend are largely unaffected.
Rauzan Gassies (Margaux)
"The elegant, dark ruby/purple-tinged 2008 Rauzan-Gassies possesses fresh, lively notes of herbs, damp earth, and sweet currants as well as blacker fruits. Good body, a moderately long finish, and no aggressiveness suggest it will drink well for 12-15 years." (P 88-90).
Romer du Hayot (Sauterne)
This is very tight on the nose although the palate does have some attractive honeyed, zesty flavors coming through. Disjointed now but I think it will come together in a year's time.
St. Pierre (St. Julien)
It is a shame this wine is so difficult to find, but it is one of the smaller estates in St.-Julien, and Saint-Pierre has a very strong following in Belgium as well as other European countries. The inky/blue/purple-tinged 2008 exhibits sweet notes of creme de cassis, blackberries, charcoal, incense, and damp forest floor. With plenty of sweet, ripe tannin in addition to a textured, full-bodied mouthfeel, this blockbuster will require some patience. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2030" (P 92-94).
Troplong Mondot (St. Emilion)
"What a worthy rival to the prodigious 2005! This is another superb success from proprietress Christine Valette, but it is distressing to hear that this property may be up for sale. The inky/blue/purple-colored, formidably concentrated 2008 exhibits aromas of smoke, blueberry and blackberry liqueur, roasted coffee, and spice box. Boasting fabulous fruit and purity, a multilayered texture, full body, and prominent, but sweet, well-integrated tannin, this is a tour de force in winemaking from an outstanding and a perfectionist proprietor. Give it 5-6 years of bottle age, and drink it over the following three decades." (P 95-97).
